Sat. 21st April 2012: Chile – Santiago YHA.7.36pm
Still somewhat jet-lagged, altho` I managed to haul myself out of bed at 10am for breakfast.
Putting my bike back together was tedious as I discovered that two screws were wrecked. Typically, none of the spares I carry were the right size. Replacing these was fairly urgent as the roads will be hellish and I want my front rack to stay on, and my rear mud-gaurd in place..
I found the bike shop àlley` in San Diego street. The guys replaced the screws, put more air in my tyres (my Topeak is officially crap) & adjusted the slack on my chain. They charged me 7,000 pesos (bastards!!) Had to beat them down from 10,000. By the time this had been done, the shops were shut, so fuel – bencina blanca, a lighter and some data for my mobile will have to wait. Bought some food, but am now wishing I had a glass of wine instead of mint tea!!
If I can make it to Valparaiso tomorrow (a hilly 131km) then I have a `Couch surfing` bed at Eduardo`s…not sure if I`ll manage it. We`ll see!
I`m hoping that I`ll have more energy tomorrow. The problem with being in a cheap 6 person dorm. is the interrupted sleep, with people coming and going at 2/4/5/6/8am. Shame I am no longer in my 20s.
Am hoping that once I`m on the road, all will be well. Or better! Given that my Spanish is severely lacking, I`m probably doing OK.
Would be much easier travelling on a bus!
Time to pack. But first, some tea..if I can sneak into the closed kitchen, that is!
Back in Auckland – 16 April 2012
After an overnight bus from Wellington, I arrived, somewhat bleary-eyed, but what a lovely sunny morning…Perfect for riding back to Newmarket.
As Paddy and Becks are in England, and their flat-mates out, I have the house to myself! I wrote a jobs list, which was rather longer than I’d imagined. Hmm. Luckily, the weather forecast is good, so cleaning & re-proofing my tent etc will be straight forward. Once I’ve purchased Nikwax/ TX Direct & Tech wash.
I read an article yesterday which said that one should give up coffee for a month. I thought about this. Could I? I made myself a smoothie (as per said article) of: one banana, one kiwi fruit, some water and spinach leaves. No doubt it was very good for me, but I don’t think I’m ready to quit my caffeine habit just yet. Gotta have some vices, for goodness sake.
So tomorow I shall stitch and mend some kit; wash and proof jacket. over trousers and tent. Post items to friends/ give away unecessary clothes that I have accumulated. Clean my bike, put new tyres on and take the slack off the chain. Have another look at a route from Santiago to La Paz and work out distances. Suss out how I get to the airport (and drive Paddy’s automatic car.) Purchase more insurance. Re-pack my bag and weigh everything. Possibly purchase a few Kindle books. Maybe go for a swim? Email another hostel in Chile and see if I can sort an airport collection. Read my guide book. Learn a few Spanish phrases. Try to relax and not worry about the fact that I am likely to freeze my bits off once I reach altitude in the Andes.
As for the curency: I sincerely hope there aren’t hundrerds of coins. One pound = 766CLP. Time to stop spending so much money, but then New Zealand was always going to be more of a holiday destination. Apart from the crazy week of sea kayaking, I’ve done a sky dive, an overnight cruise on the Milford Sound and the Routeburn Tramp. Plus a little jaunt on the coastal Trans-Alpine railway and a trip into Christchurch, which was not originaly on my list.
The cycling has been absolutely amazing – more so in the South Island, which seemed to be better the further South I rode. After slogging up Lewis Pass, the rest of the hills weren’t so bad. I could have done without soft tyres going over Arthur’s Pass, but Lindis was pretty easy and riding over the Crown range was fun. Well, it was hard the first time, the easier way, from Wanaka as I had a stomach ache from hell and an absence of energy. But the nice Belgium lad waited for me at the top and we rode into Queenstown together. Returning from Queenstown, I knew exactly what lay ahead and stubbornly refused to stop, once I’d ridden up the initial zig-zags. I was very glad that I’d made some sarnies to take with me, as it was cold at the top. My hands froze on the descent. Stopped for tea in the Cordrona Hotel, and 2 different groups came up to me and commented on my cycling. it’s rare that anyone does this, so I felt rather pleased. I treated myself to a bed in the YHA in Wanaka and a swim the following morning. 2km. Getter better!
I really ought to do something about promoting the Cancer Research link on the site, and add photos. Plus do some stretches. I’ve just about recovered from the trauma of yesterday’s massage – both the pain endured and the devestating comment from the miniscuke Balinese masseuse, who exclaimed: ”Wow! You have the body of a man…” So much for killing time before the night bus, in a relaxing manner. The day I lose my sense of humour, is the day I return home!
In April (19th) I fly to Chile, to ride from Santiago up to La Paz (Bolivia.) I’m not sure of my route yet. Can’t decide whether to stick to Chile or ride through Argentina. We’ll see what happens! I have to be in La Paz for the beginning of July for a months’ work. I could do with arriving a few days beforehand to acclimatise and rest. After that, I may well head to BA to meet my brother. Sounds easy, put like that. I’ll have to purchase some Ortleib water bags and a new set of tyres before I leave NZ, plus a new chain and cables no doubt.
The next leg (20th Jan – 24th Feb) in Australia occured as I had a free flight to Melbourne, so I decided to cycle up the coast to Sydney and enjoy a bit of sun, plus some time in both cities.
I’m about to go to New Zealand, which has been on my list for about 15 years! North Island first then the stuning South.
I had a brief stop back in the UK before flying to Borneo, for 3 weeks of expedition work. Took a group of Aussie students up Mt Kinabalu (c4000m) & recalled my last visit there, in 2000.
We rode from Pakistan over the KKH (Karakorum Highway) into China, riding over 4,600m passes.
After Kazakhstan we flew to Istanbul, Turkey then headed West, to Greece and down to Athens
Turkistan and time for bed. At least tonight I won’t be sleeping a total flea pit with a zillion flies buzzing by my head. Intruiged by what the desert has to offer in terms of terrain etc. Not looking forward to the rain and colder nights.
Shame the leg strength developed in Tajikistan has evaporated – we cycled up an incline yesterday (not even remotely hilly really) and my lungs/ legs went into shock!
Am adjusting to Tenge (the currency) but do need to learn Russian: communication is limited.
Internet is closing! C
Hi Cress, great to hear your update. Hope all goes smoothly with the visas. Good to know that you’ve found some nice things to eat; I hadn’t quite twigged you’d be camping in the desert in this leg of your trip (but then I was a bit surprised to see high snowy mountains in Peru – amazing I got my O-level geography…!) Anyway, do keep writing as it’s so good to hear all your adventures, Much love, Ros x
Tashkent – still! Waiting for the Kazakhstan visa, which we’ll collect at 5pm on Thursday, then scarper across the border before midnight. Deb’s visa runs out that day.
I tried swimming yesterday (found a pool at a hotel) but hadn’t realised that the bones in my backside would not appreciate the exercise. Lay in the sauna instead, and adjusted my position, then accidentally rolled over a bit, felt lots of pain, grabbed the wooden back rest to support myself – which came off in my hands, and escaped in agony. Hardly the relaxing afternoon I had hoped for! C’est la vie.
Cleaned my bike this morning and found that the front disk brake is still rubbing slightly (wheel isn’t going to be aligned properly until I find a decent bike shop – probably back at Ghyllside Cycles!) But I’ve had more clothes cleaned and sussed a supermarket with lots of goodies to cook when in the desert and camping again.
Not sure how one gets rid of the ‘spam’ when Tweeting? I need to talk with Pete about how I can update the website as I go. Had some ideas for a book (or two) which would be great if they ever come off. I like the idea of not working for a living.
Rah rah – too much time on my hands in the City!
Hi Cress,
You seem to be having the perfect type of fun on these trips- amazing experiences interspersed with dealing with disasters! Great going! Put me down for the Tajikistant return trip.
Ann
Now in Samarkand and thankfully have a night in hotel – opposite the 3 major Medussers(?) hope my spelling’s OK? Am clean again (feels great) after a long shower. We did another 100k day (long enough with a laden bike, uphill, in the Uzbek. sun) to ensure we arrived tonight.
So much to say about the last few weeks and little time now. In brief – Deb saw a Doctor who sliced her absyss and she now needs to see a dentist in Tashkent… I was knocked off my bike and need a bike shop to sort my buckled wheel. Co-codamol tablets are sorting the bodily soreness, but I’ll be glad when I can sleep on my back without pain.
The kindness from the Uzbeki people has been overwhelming. Wish we were as selfless in the West.
Tiredness kicking in now, will update when more time.
Def. want to return to Tajikistan sometime though and cycle the Wakhan route by Afghanistan – anyone fancy it?!
C xxx
Hey Cress, where are you gal? Hope all’s well and you’re having a wonderful time..lots of love from Big Brov – ps Spurs are doing ok at the mo, so if you could just stay away for a while it might help them continue!
Ey up lasses! Glad to hear you’re visa plus (probably) and even permit happy too…hope the tooth fairy came (and went) and all is good in the land of big pedalling and slightly bumpy roads. Back in the ‘Du now after a few sunny days chilling in Pokhara and (allegedly) resting up a sprained knee – slippery jungle running. oooch. Off to Blighty tomorrow for a few weeks of HE madness then back ere and on again to see if PIA will actually fly any of their planes. Keep finding the good things gals
xx
I just looked up the Pamirs, having never heard of them and feeling horribly uninformed: Beautiful landscape def. worth a look for those of us not actually there: http://www.pamirs.org
Hiya Cress,
Sounds like you’re having lots of adventures – some good & some frustrating! Sounds fab. Hope you get all your visas sorted & extended etc & Debs gets her teeth sorted (what’s she done?!) Life goes on as usual back here in Blighty, although we do seem to be having summer at the moment!!
Take care & enjoy!
Suzanne xxxx
Glad to hear everything is going well, including your battles with asian officialdom. Looking forward to seeing loads of piccie’s from the Pamirs and interesting updates. Autumn is arriving quickly here, so winter will be round the corner (have to get the ski’s and myself ready). Good luck to Debs with the dentist and keep on pedaling. xx
Oh how the other half live!! Bet the coffee tasted fab, i’d have to take a portable espresso maker with me! Have just been looking up about the Pamirs, looks amazing, how long do you think it will take you? We’re about to have a heatwave for the rest of this week, yippee. Off to France for a few days on Saturday, so hopefully get on the beach! Anyway take care and keep posting, love following your adventure! Hope Debs teeth get sorted! xx
Coffee at the Sheraton, reading Thomas Hardy – sounds very relaxing. Great to hear your news, and I’m keeping fingers crossed for the next stage – and for Deb’s teeth!
xxx
Good news: purchased train tickets for Tuesday & now have a contact for the GBAO Permits to allow us to bike through the Pamirs.
Bad news: Deb has been to 3 dentists today and will need to go back (or see someone else…) hope she’ll be OK.
Good news: Had a proper coffee today (had to go to the Sheraton hotel for the indulgence.) Bought myself a fleece for 238Y (ie. 23 quid – cheap as chips, out here.) Started reading Hardy’s ‘Mayor of Casterbridge’ on my Kindle – such is life in the city, when you’re killing time.
And tomorrow I’ll probably buy provisions for when we’re camping as the supermarkets have a decent array of food ie. porridge and pasta! A high life, eh?
Hmm…good news and some not so great.
My Kyrg. visa will be ready on Monday (yay) however we have looked at the map and there’s fundamentally no way we can cycle the route we want – well, any route – and get to Dushanbe in time to extend our visas. Also, we still don’t have pemits to bike thro’ the Pamirs. Yet!
Being optimistic (or possibly a bit foolish) I reckon we’re gonna go for it anyway and hope we can catch a few lifts from friendly truck drivers. If not, we’ll have heafty fines to pay for every day that we overstay our visa.
More importantly, the sun shone today – a welcome change and now we’re both starving (my appetite is back post first bout of dodgy tummy) and I’m ready to eat like a horse. As usual.
Also, we need to arange transport back to Kashgar (min 24 hour train journey) and to stay at a less smokey hostel. Rah rah. Where’s the food? Time to go!
(By the way – is that young Mr Carrington aka Andy C – you been out on your bike yet?? I hope so! xx)
How you doing. I,ve been checking out your website, and catching up with where you are. I hope the next part of your tour goes well and the weather stays fair, and try not to fall off any mountains. Speak again soon, enjoy xx : )
Hi Egg, great to hear news of your adventure! Sounds fantastic. Got your website from Camilla so have been following you via the tracker. You be careful eating too many curries when you’re miles (literally) from a loo!! 38 degress . . . could do with abit of that here! Summer seems to have passed us by here and autumn is on its way. Take plenty of pics for us. Take care matey and look forward to your next update. Loads of love xx Think of our dearest Muffin tomorrow as one year will have passed xx
In China!!
Having a few enforced rest days…having to wait for a train to Urumchi (on Weds) where I can hopefully obtain a visa for Kyrgystan and a permit to ride through the Pamirs in Tajikistan…
Amazing cycling so far: 38 degree heat in Pakistan (which was lovely – v friendly people/great curries/ hellish ‘roads’ – well, no tarmac anywhere to be seen and lots of sand/ landslides/ stones etc)…been over a few high altitude passes (in blizzards – oh joy!) and cycled 80km in the rain feeling horrendous one day. Hey ho!!
Seen Ibex, marmot, wild dogs (not good) eagles, Marco Polo sheep, lots of bizarre and wonderful sights.
It’s crazy here in China – the police go round with batons/guns and shields in groups of 6!! And this is NW of China – still q Islamic, but it doesn’t stop them putting Neon lights on everything and over-ruling the traditional Kyrg./NW Asian heritage.
On a diff note, I had a fab massage today, and tomorrow I’ll tinker with the bike (which needs a really good clean) and go on the Ferris wheel here in Kashgar. Tough job…
Hope you’re all well. Lovely to hear from you all.
Byeee for now xx
Hey love, sounds amazing already, I’m very envious. Can’t wait to hear more about your adventures……puts my holiday to Devon this year to shame! Sending lots of love J xxxxx
Hi Cress, Hope it’s going well; it all sounds amazing. I’m off to Peru on Thursday so will e-mail you before then. Hope you’re taking lots of pics. Trains, buses, boats; you’re certainly having an adventure! As expected of course. Do hope that it is fun too, Much love, Ros xx
So the bikes have been assembled but due to inclement weather, we’re gonna start tomorrow!! No point being drenched n demoralized on day 1…Means we have a great excuse to eat lots and read. Gilgit is ‘interesting’; no women on the streets, and no other tourists. Felt v strange yesterday, when a lady in a car insisted that she give Deb & I a lift to a shop, as she wasn’t happy about us walking around. It is Eid still, so holiday time.
Have worked out that I can obtain a visa for Kyrgystan in Urumqi, in China. It means a day’s detour each way by train, but provides a great reason to see a bit more of China.
By the sounds of things, we’ll have a boat trip in a couple of days, as a landslide last year washed away a 25km section of road – it’s now a lake! Then there’s the obligatory bus ride across the pass into China as they don’t permit cyclists on part of the KKH. So I’m v excited about the whole journey…we’ll see how it goes!
Thanks for the messages – much appreciated x
Hi Cress, delighted to hear that your big adventure is finally about to start. Hope everything goes well, thinking of you loads. Today we collect Marguerite from Worthing once Josh returns from latest camping/party frolics! Fingers crossed at school that final academy-conversion efforts have paid off – I’m about to call DfE. Hugs and kisses, CamX
about 3 weeks ago
Sat. 21st April 2012: Chile – Santiago YHA.7.36pm
Still somewhat jet-lagged, altho` I managed to haul myself out of bed at 10am for breakfast.
Putting my bike back together was tedious as I discovered that two screws were wrecked. Typically, none of the spares I carry were the right size. Replacing these was fairly urgent as the roads will be hellish and I want my front rack to stay on, and my rear mud-gaurd in place..
I found the bike shop àlley` in San Diego street. The guys replaced the screws, put more air in my tyres (my Topeak is officially crap) & adjusted the slack on my chain. They charged me 7,000 pesos (bastards!!) Had to beat them down from 10,000. By the time this had been done, the shops were shut, so fuel – bencina blanca, a lighter and some data for my mobile will have to wait. Bought some food, but am now wishing I had a glass of wine instead of mint tea!!
If I can make it to Valparaiso tomorrow (a hilly 131km) then I have a `Couch surfing` bed at Eduardo`s…not sure if I`ll manage it. We`ll see!
I`m hoping that I`ll have more energy tomorrow. The problem with being in a cheap 6 person dorm. is the interrupted sleep, with people coming and going at 2/4/5/6/8am. Shame I am no longer in my 20s.
Am hoping that once I`m on the road, all will be well. Or better! Given that my Spanish is severely lacking, I`m probably doing OK.
Would be much easier travelling on a bus!
Time to pack. But first, some tea..if I can sneak into the closed kitchen, that is!
about 3 weeks ago
Back in Auckland – 16 April 2012
After an overnight bus from Wellington, I arrived, somewhat bleary-eyed, but what a lovely sunny morning…Perfect for riding back to Newmarket.
As Paddy and Becks are in England, and their flat-mates out, I have the house to myself! I wrote a jobs list, which was rather longer than I’d imagined. Hmm. Luckily, the weather forecast is good, so cleaning & re-proofing my tent etc will be straight forward. Once I’ve purchased Nikwax/ TX Direct & Tech wash.
I read an article yesterday which said that one should give up coffee for a month. I thought about this. Could I? I made myself a smoothie (as per said article) of: one banana, one kiwi fruit, some water and spinach leaves. No doubt it was very good for me, but I don’t think I’m ready to quit my caffeine habit just yet. Gotta have some vices, for goodness sake.
So tomorow I shall stitch and mend some kit; wash and proof jacket. over trousers and tent. Post items to friends/ give away unecessary clothes that I have accumulated. Clean my bike, put new tyres on and take the slack off the chain. Have another look at a route from Santiago to La Paz and work out distances. Suss out how I get to the airport (and drive Paddy’s automatic car.) Purchase more insurance. Re-pack my bag and weigh everything. Possibly purchase a few Kindle books. Maybe go for a swim? Email another hostel in Chile and see if I can sort an airport collection. Read my guide book. Learn a few Spanish phrases. Try to relax and not worry about the fact that I am likely to freeze my bits off once I reach altitude in the Andes.
As for the curency: I sincerely hope there aren’t hundrerds of coins. One pound = 766CLP. Time to stop spending so much money, but then New Zealand was always going to be more of a holiday destination. Apart from the crazy week of sea kayaking, I’ve done a sky dive, an overnight cruise on the Milford Sound and the Routeburn Tramp. Plus a little jaunt on the coastal Trans-Alpine railway and a trip into Christchurch, which was not originaly on my list.
The cycling has been absolutely amazing – more so in the South Island, which seemed to be better the further South I rode. After slogging up Lewis Pass, the rest of the hills weren’t so bad. I could have done without soft tyres going over Arthur’s Pass, but Lindis was pretty easy and riding over the Crown range was fun. Well, it was hard the first time, the easier way, from Wanaka as I had a stomach ache from hell and an absence of energy. But the nice Belgium lad waited for me at the top and we rode into Queenstown together. Returning from Queenstown, I knew exactly what lay ahead and stubbornly refused to stop, once I’d ridden up the initial zig-zags. I was very glad that I’d made some sarnies to take with me, as it was cold at the top. My hands froze on the descent. Stopped for tea in the Cordrona Hotel, and 2 different groups came up to me and commented on my cycling. it’s rare that anyone does this, so I felt rather pleased. I treated myself to a bed in the YHA in Wanaka and a swim the following morning. 2km. Getter better!
I really ought to do something about promoting the Cancer Research link on the site, and add photos. Plus do some stretches. I’ve just about recovered from the trauma of yesterday’s massage – both the pain endured and the devestating comment from the miniscuke Balinese masseuse, who exclaimed: ”Wow! You have the body of a man…” So much for killing time before the night bus, in a relaxing manner. The day I lose my sense of humour, is the day I return home!
about 2 months ago
In April (19th) I fly to Chile, to ride from Santiago up to La Paz (Bolivia.) I’m not sure of my route yet. Can’t decide whether to stick to Chile or ride through Argentina. We’ll see what happens! I have to be in La Paz for the beginning of July for a months’ work. I could do with arriving a few days beforehand to acclimatise and rest. After that, I may well head to BA to meet my brother. Sounds easy, put like that. I’ll have to purchase some Ortleib water bags and a new set of tyres before I leave NZ, plus a new chain and cables no doubt.
about 2 months ago
The next leg (20th Jan – 24th Feb) in Australia occured as I had a free flight to Melbourne, so I decided to cycle up the coast to Sydney and enjoy a bit of sun, plus some time in both cities.
I’m about to go to New Zealand, which has been on my list for about 15 years! North Island first then the stuning South.
about 2 months ago
I had a brief stop back in the UK before flying to Borneo, for 3 weeks of expedition work. Took a group of Aussie students up Mt Kinabalu (c4000m) & recalled my last visit there, in 2000.
about 2 months ago
We rode from Pakistan over the KKH (Karakorum Highway) into China, riding over 4,600m passes.
After Kazakhstan we flew to Istanbul, Turkey then headed West, to Greece and down to Athens
about 7 months ago
Turkistan and time for bed. At least tonight I won’t be sleeping a total flea pit with a zillion flies buzzing by my head. Intruiged by what the desert has to offer in terms of terrain etc. Not looking forward to the rain and colder nights.
Shame the leg strength developed in Tajikistan has evaporated – we cycled up an incline yesterday (not even remotely hilly really) and my lungs/ legs went into shock!
Am adjusting to Tenge (the currency) but do need to learn Russian: communication is limited.
Internet is closing! C
about 7 months ago
Hi Cress, great to hear your update. Hope all goes smoothly with the visas. Good to know that you’ve found some nice things to eat; I hadn’t quite twigged you’d be camping in the desert in this leg of your trip (but then I was a bit surprised to see high snowy mountains in Peru – amazing I got my O-level geography…!) Anyway, do keep writing as it’s so good to hear all your adventures, Much love, Ros x
about 7 months ago
Tashkent – still! Waiting for the Kazakhstan visa, which we’ll collect at 5pm on Thursday, then scarper across the border before midnight. Deb’s visa runs out that day.
I tried swimming yesterday (found a pool at a hotel) but hadn’t realised that the bones in my backside would not appreciate the exercise. Lay in the sauna instead, and adjusted my position, then accidentally rolled over a bit, felt lots of pain, grabbed the wooden back rest to support myself – which came off in my hands, and escaped in agony. Hardly the relaxing afternoon I had hoped for! C’est la vie.
Cleaned my bike this morning and found that the front disk brake is still rubbing slightly (wheel isn’t going to be aligned properly until I find a decent bike shop – probably back at Ghyllside Cycles!) But I’ve had more clothes cleaned and sussed a supermarket with lots of goodies to cook when in the desert and camping again.
Not sure how one gets rid of the ‘spam’ when Tweeting? I need to talk with Pete about how I can update the website as I go. Had some ideas for a book (or two) which would be great if they ever come off. I like the idea of not working for a living.
Rah rah – too much time on my hands in the City!
about 7 months ago
Hi Cress,
You seem to be having the perfect type of fun on these trips- amazing experiences interspersed with dealing with disasters! Great going! Put me down for the Tajikistant return trip.
Ann
about 7 months ago
Now in Samarkand and thankfully have a night in hotel – opposite the 3 major Medussers(?) hope my spelling’s OK? Am clean again (feels great) after a long shower. We did another 100k day (long enough with a laden bike, uphill, in the Uzbek. sun) to ensure we arrived tonight.
So much to say about the last few weeks and little time now. In brief – Deb saw a Doctor who sliced her absyss and she now needs to see a dentist in Tashkent… I was knocked off my bike and need a bike shop to sort my buckled wheel. Co-codamol tablets are sorting the bodily soreness, but I’ll be glad when I can sleep on my back without pain.
The kindness from the Uzbeki people has been overwhelming. Wish we were as selfless in the West.
Tiredness kicking in now, will update when more time.
Def. want to return to Tajikistan sometime though and cycle the Wakhan route by Afghanistan – anyone fancy it?!
C xxx
about 7 months ago
Hey Cress, where are you gal? Hope all’s well and you’re having a wonderful time..lots of love from Big Brov – ps Spurs are doing ok at the mo, so if you could just stay away for a while it might help them continue!
about 7 months ago
Ey up lasses! Glad to hear you’re visa plus (probably) and even permit happy too…hope the tooth fairy came (and went) and all is good in the land of big pedalling and slightly bumpy roads. Back in the ‘Du now after a few sunny days chilling in Pokhara and (allegedly) resting up a sprained knee – slippery jungle running. oooch. Off to Blighty tomorrow for a few weeks of HE madness then back ere and on again to see if PIA will actually fly any of their planes. Keep finding the good things gals
xx
about 7 months ago
I just looked up the Pamirs, having never heard of them and feeling horribly uninformed: Beautiful landscape def. worth a look for those of us not actually there: http://www.pamirs.org
about 7 months ago
Hiya Cress,
Sounds like you’re having lots of adventures – some good & some frustrating! Sounds fab. Hope you get all your visas sorted & extended etc & Debs gets her teeth sorted (what’s she done?!) Life goes on as usual back here in Blighty, although we do seem to be having summer at the moment!!
Take care & enjoy!
Suzanne xxxx
about 7 months ago
Glad to hear everything is going well, including your battles with asian officialdom. Looking forward to seeing loads of piccie’s from the Pamirs and interesting updates. Autumn is arriving quickly here, so winter will be round the corner (have to get the ski’s and myself ready). Good luck to Debs with the dentist and keep on pedaling. xx
about 7 months ago
Oh how the other half live!! Bet the coffee tasted fab, i’d have to take a portable espresso maker with me! Have just been looking up about the Pamirs, looks amazing, how long do you think it will take you? We’re about to have a heatwave for the rest of this week, yippee. Off to France for a few days on Saturday, so hopefully get on the beach! Anyway take care and keep posting, love following your adventure! Hope Debs teeth get sorted! xx
about 7 months ago
Coffee at the Sheraton, reading Thomas Hardy – sounds very relaxing. Great to hear your news, and I’m keeping fingers crossed for the next stage – and for Deb’s teeth!
xxx
about 7 months ago
Good news: purchased train tickets for Tuesday & now have a contact for the GBAO Permits to allow us to bike through the Pamirs.
Bad news: Deb has been to 3 dentists today and will need to go back (or see someone else…) hope she’ll be OK.
Good news: Had a proper coffee today (had to go to the Sheraton hotel for the indulgence.) Bought myself a fleece for 238Y (ie. 23 quid – cheap as chips, out here.) Started reading Hardy’s ‘Mayor of Casterbridge’ on my Kindle – such is life in the city, when you’re killing time.
And tomorrow I’ll probably buy provisions for when we’re camping as the supermarkets have a decent array of food ie. porridge and pasta! A high life, eh?
about 8 months ago
Hmm…good news and some not so great.
My Kyrg. visa will be ready on Monday (yay) however we have looked at the map and there’s fundamentally no way we can cycle the route we want – well, any route – and get to Dushanbe in time to extend our visas. Also, we still don’t have pemits to bike thro’ the Pamirs. Yet!
Being optimistic (or possibly a bit foolish) I reckon we’re gonna go for it anyway and hope we can catch a few lifts from friendly truck drivers. If not, we’ll have heafty fines to pay for every day that we overstay our visa.
More importantly, the sun shone today – a welcome change and now we’re both starving (my appetite is back post first bout of dodgy tummy) and I’m ready to eat like a horse. As usual.
Also, we need to arange transport back to Kashgar (min 24 hour train journey) and to stay at a less smokey hostel. Rah rah. Where’s the food? Time to go!
(By the way – is that young Mr Carrington aka Andy C – you been out on your bike yet?? I hope so! xx)
about 8 months ago
How you doing. I,ve been checking out your website, and catching up with where you are. I hope the next part of your tour goes well and the weather stays fair, and try not to fall off any mountains. Speak again soon, enjoy xx : )
about 8 months ago
Hi Egg, great to hear news of your adventure! Sounds fantastic. Got your website from Camilla so have been following you via the tracker. You be careful eating too many curries when you’re miles (literally) from a loo!! 38 degress . . . could do with abit of that here! Summer seems to have passed us by here and autumn is on its way. Take plenty of pics for us. Take care matey and look forward to your next update. Loads of love xx Think of our dearest Muffin tomorrow as one year will have passed xx
about 8 months ago
In China!!
Having a few enforced rest days…having to wait for a train to Urumchi (on Weds) where I can hopefully obtain a visa for Kyrgystan and a permit to ride through the Pamirs in Tajikistan…
Amazing cycling so far: 38 degree heat in Pakistan (which was lovely – v friendly people/great curries/ hellish ‘roads’ – well, no tarmac anywhere to be seen and lots of sand/ landslides/ stones etc)…been over a few high altitude passes (in blizzards – oh joy!) and cycled 80km in the rain feeling horrendous one day. Hey ho!!
Seen Ibex, marmot, wild dogs (not good) eagles, Marco Polo sheep, lots of bizarre and wonderful sights.
It’s crazy here in China – the police go round with batons/guns and shields in groups of 6!! And this is NW of China – still q Islamic, but it doesn’t stop them putting Neon lights on everything and over-ruling the traditional Kyrg./NW Asian heritage.
On a diff note, I had a fab massage today, and tomorrow I’ll tinker with the bike (which needs a really good clean) and go on the Ferris wheel here in Kashgar. Tough job…
Hope you’re all well. Lovely to hear from you all.
Byeee for now xx
about 8 months ago
Hi Cress! What an adventure! Enjoy yourself and have fun!
about 8 months ago
Hey Cress, Wishing you lots of fun times. Missing you in the office!x
about 8 months ago
Hey love, sounds amazing already, I’m very envious. Can’t wait to hear more about your adventures……puts my holiday to Devon this year to shame! Sending lots of love J xxxxx
about 8 months ago
Hi Cress, Hope it’s going well; it all sounds amazing. I’m off to Peru on Thursday so will e-mail you before then. Hope you’re taking lots of pics. Trains, buses, boats; you’re certainly having an adventure! As expected of course. Do hope that it is fun too, Much love, Ros xx
about 8 months ago
Hi Cress.
Hope your off to a pleasant start, good luck. Back at work this week, same s***, different day!! Vv envious
about 8 months ago
Hope you get off to a good start. I swam River Dart 10k and pretty chuffed too. I thought of you as inspiration as I swam!
about 8 months ago
Hi Cress
Wishing you all the best as we start a new term on Monday!
Good luck
Roger X
about 8 months ago
So the bikes have been assembled but due to inclement weather, we’re gonna start tomorrow!! No point being drenched n demoralized on day 1…Means we have a great excuse to eat lots and read. Gilgit is ‘interesting’; no women on the streets, and no other tourists. Felt v strange yesterday, when a lady in a car insisted that she give Deb & I a lift to a shop, as she wasn’t happy about us walking around. It is Eid still, so holiday time.
Have worked out that I can obtain a visa for Kyrgystan in Urumqi, in China. It means a day’s detour each way by train, but provides a great reason to see a bit more of China.
By the sounds of things, we’ll have a boat trip in a couple of days, as a landslide last year washed away a 25km section of road – it’s now a lake! Then there’s the obligatory bus ride across the pass into China as they don’t permit cyclists on part of the KKH. So I’m v excited about the whole journey…we’ll see how it goes!
Thanks for the messages – much appreciated x
about 8 months ago
Hello Cress,
Hope you have a fantastic time, thinking of you whilst preparing for a stressful September!!! Take care and your bike is in very good hands! Becky x
about 8 months ago
Hi Cress, delighted to hear that your big adventure is finally about to start. Hope everything goes well, thinking of you loads. Today we collect Marguerite from Worthing once Josh returns from latest camping/party frolics! Fingers crossed at school that final academy-conversion efforts have paid off – I’m about to call DfE. Hugs and kisses, CamX
about 8 months ago
Off to Pakistan later – hoorah. The trip is about to commence. Sad to leave Jo’s lovely flat in Kathmandu tho’ – great views and it’s so relaxing.
about 9 months ago
International athlete Merlene Ottley, who is 51 yrs, ran magnificently at Crystal Palace yesterday.
about 9 months ago
Hi there Cress, hope you are off to a good start. I sent you a tweet and thought it might appear on this page somewhere. Hugs, CamX
about 10 months ago
Currently feeling very hacked off due to Pakistan Embassy deciding not to issue visas at this time.